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He lives in Los Angeles, where he grills and entertains outdoors as much as possible.

But it turns out that little wisp of dried chile smolder does the Lord's work on a house-smoked pastrami Reuben.So you trust she has her reasons when you find out there's Madras curry powder rubbed into the skin of her chicken, and that she's seasoned half-sour pickles with Japanese furikake, and that it's a tiny bit of Sichuan peppercorn that gives her mutton chop its ambiguous tingle.

Johnson might have picked up a few of these tricks working in New York City kitchens like Empellón and Mimi, where her command of old-world French cuisine had every critic in town calling her a millennial virtuoso.But it was at Toro in Boston, under chef Jamie Bissonnette (a People's BNC in 2011), that she acquired the kitchen tool she values most: intuition.It's what makes Johnson's dance with the deli canon so compelling.

At Freedman's, Johnson treats tradition like a suggestion, an approach that frees her up to finesse old ideas while still tugging at nostalgic heartstrings.It all might be best expressed in her version of a black-and-white cookie, a vanilla-sugar number that is soft and tender where the OG version is dry and cakey, with glossy ganache and egg-white frosting where a purist might have settled for fondant.

With one bite it resolves every broken promise of every black-and-white that came before it, reminding us that in the hands of a true technician, relics have plenty of fight left in them.. 05. of 10.

Michael Gallina—Vicia, St. Louis.They smell like garlic and pineapples.’ It’s like tasting a mushroom.

You can eat a white button, a chanterelle, a morel — they’re all different.They’re fascinating.

It’s like growing a mushroom underground like a potato.”.McGee sends me a black truffle from the Pacific Northwest.